Safari Part 4a

September 1, 2009 (Serengeti Day 1)

The morning that greets us is a foggy, cloudy, sunrisy spectacle. It’s definitely chilly as we pile into the Land Rover to head to the Serengeti. Our first stop of the morning, though, is Clemens’ village.

We stop at the Maasai market to pick Clemens up, and Mike picks up three shukas (traditional Maasai robes). He has arranged to purchase three to give to us as gifts, since he had noticed us admiring all the fabric. It is an unnecessary, generous gesture, and in this chilly morning, Anita and I immediately wrap up in them for warmth (Lisa, as usual, has more warm clothes than we do and is totally prepared for the fog). We are now glories in red, the Maasai color of choice.

Then we head to Clemens’ village.

His village is really a homestead. He has two, one for each wife, and all the people that live in each village are a part of that family. So, from what I can gather, each Maasai village is essentially one family (don’t quote me on this). By the time we arrive, most of the kids have already left for school, and only the three youngest remain. Clemens’ wife and a few warriors are there, getting the day started. We peek into a cattle enclosure, a round, fenced area, where Clemens’ wife is finishing the milking before a few warriors take them down into the Crater to graze.

He has a lot of cattle, and he knows each one by site, although they’re also branded and have ear notches for good measure.

We then see the goat enclosure, and all I can imagine is Clemens locked into it for the night to kill a leopard. There’s no quick way out if things go wrong.

Then Clemens invites us into his home. It is a traditional Maasai home, made of mud, cow dung, and branches, with a thatch roof. There is one door, no windows. And no hole in the ceiling. Ergo all the smoke from the fire is currently coming out the door. We pony up and enter anyway.

It’s dark inside, the only light is from the small fire. Our tour. There are three rooms. One for the youngest goats and cattle for protection at night. The living/cooking/fire space that doubles as Clemens’ bedroom. And a small room where his wife and kids sleep. The living room, the largest of the three, is no more than 5 x 9 feet square. And filled with smoke. Fine, I’m sure, when you’re used to it, but for the three wazungu, it’s pretty intense.

I take the bull by the horns and explain that, while I love his home, my lungs are unaccustomed to the smoke. He laughs a bit at that and we make our way back outside.

He finishes the tour with the garden enclosure. This looks exactly like a cattle enclosure. Cultivating land in the National Conservation Area is illegal, and as it isn’t a traditional part of Maasai culture, they are expected to adhere to this stricture. So Clemens cleverly farms what appeared to be corn and spinach in what looks like a cattle enclosure to any outsider.

We then purchase some jewelry that his wife has made, give a box of crayons and some candy to the two young boys there, and leave a box of pens for the older kids to take to school. We thank him for his exquisite hospitality and stories and then head off, promising to send pictures to him through Mike.

To be Continued...

Photos: Clemens' wife milking cattle. Clemens' son with crayons. Clemens' home. Anita in her shuka.