Safari Part 6b

September 3, 2009 (Serengeti Day 3)

Continued...

We continue steadily north until we come to the edge of the Serengeti. There is a stretch of no man’s land, a 6 mile wide swath, which divides Tanzania and Kenya. Their borders have been closed for years.

We lunch at the edge of the park and drive up to the border to find that we are greeted by one of the creepiest welcome signs I’ve ever seen, we may as well be headed into a prison and not one of the most amazing parks I’ve ever seen. The sign is a heavy block of concrete with peeling black paint that is topped by the skull of a Cape Buffalo. I have a feeling tourists don’t often get to this sign. Who knows…

On our way back in the park, we come across a pride of lions that have made a zebra kill. The black, white and red of the zebra stand out starkly against the tan of the grass and lion fur. Across the road, not 50 yards from the kill and pride, is the herd of zebra. A group of three stands stock still at the edge of the road staring at the lions eating one of their own. These zebras do not move a muscle the entire time we are there. As we pass them on the road, they do not flinch or move. Their focus never wavers.

Great vistas open beneath us as we drive in these hills. There are moments when you look out and realize that you can see giraffe, elephant, zebra, wildebeest, eland, warthog, and impala spread out together on the same hill, living in a peaceful afternoon light. Can this be real?

The day has been cloudy and cool. And by late afternoon, the Serengeti is putting on a spectacular light display. Rays break through the clouds, lighting the animals and savannah below. It’s as if she knows this is our last day and is saying a lovely farewell.

We return to camp, and for our last evening together, Anita, Lisa and I decide to all wear the shukas that Mike has given us. We get cleaned up, make some dresses from the Maasai wool, and head up for dinner. Mike is dressed beautifully too, and he loves our outfits. Tonight, we will close down the restaurant yet again.

Most of the other guests are reserved and fairly formal. I guess we are the obnoxious Americans, because our table is filled with stories and laughter all night, and the bright red of the shukas is certainly hard to miss. The staff loves it though, and most come by to chat at some point that evening.

As we’re headed back to the tent, a break in the clouds catches Anita in the light of the full moon. It doesn’t stay out for long, but for a brief moment we are graced with her silvery presence.

Tomorrow, we go home…

Photos: The Tanzania welcome sign at the border. Help! Sunset over a kopje. Dressed for dinner in shukas.