Safari Part 4c

September 1, 2009 (Serengeti Day 1)

We enter the park, 5,000 square miles of savannah dotted by kopjes, and have lunch. We then proceed to drive into the park, and Mike swings by a few kopjes. It is mid-day, hot, and he knows the big cats like to rest in the shade of the rocks, or on top of them for better sight lines. Within thirty minutes of entering the park, Mike says ‘There, look there.’ Ahead of us are three, huge male lions, manes blowing in the breeze, sitting on top of a very large rock. You couldn’t plan this better. This is a shot from a movie or a dream. Amazing and fairly surreal.

We stop to watch. Here, unlike the Crater, it is just us. And Them. And the breeze. After a few minutes, one gets up. He comes down off the rock, and starts to check the scents on the air. He then moves straight towards us and pees on Mike’s Land Rover. We are now part of his territory.

The other two follow suit and then head over to the females in the pride. Holy mama.

Welcome to the Serengeti.

Every time I’m sure Mike can’t top the last experience. He does. Big male lions. Three of them. Big. Yeah.

We continue into the park and see countless gazelle. The Thompson Gazelle out here are in unbelievable number. Probably because they require no water beyond what they can get out the grass and the dew in the morning and haven’t been forced by the drought to higher land.

We head further in, coming to a riverbed with trees and see our first elephant out here, and many many giraffe. This is twiga country. We haven’t seen them since our drive to Kilimanjaro, but now they’re everywhere, running with an awkward grace and gentlness.

Then, our first chui (leopard). He is in his tree. It’s hot, late afternoon. And he’s clearly eaten. He is lying in what appears to be a most uncomfortable position with his huge belly protruding. Mike says this is one of the largest male leopards he’s seen.

In our time on the Serengeti, we will see 5 leopards (a lot!), and 4 of those we see in trees at a distance. Only one up close and on the ground, but he ran so quickly none of us got a good look. Elusive and beautiful, these big cats.

Then we head toward our camp. As we round the corner on our way in, we spot a dikdik. Smallest of all the gazelle. He is about the size of a mini Doberman Pinscher. Beautiful and delicate.

We pull into our lodge--the Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp. This is technically not a lodge. The entire place is made up of semi-permanent tents. The flooring and furniture are permanent, as well as the toilet, sink and shower, but the top is definitely a canvas tent. This is definitely the best of the lodgings we have had the entire trip. The food and staff also win in our private rating system.

We settle in, have dinner, and call it a night. Tomorrow will be a full day on the Serengeti.

Photos: Big Male Lions! And a dikdik.